Saba, Netherland Antilles

This trip was just for me. I left my husband and son to their own devices, and headed to Saba for what I hoped to be a relaxing weekend in January '09.

GETTING THERE: I flew Continental from Newark to St. Maarten, then took Winair to Saba. Besides the long layover each way (3 to 4 hours), the flights themselves were non-eventful.

SABA'S FAMOUS RUNWAY & LANDING: The island's runway is reportedly the shortest commercial airport runway at 1,300 feet. I expected to feel a little thrill during the landing and takeoff, but alas I didn't. I suspect the cockpit windows are to blame for my disappointment. They are high up, so it's impossible for a seating passenger to have the same view as the pilot's.

HOTEL: I stayed at the Queen's Gardens Resort, a small hotel nestled in the hills of Saba. I was in the Queen's Suite with great views of The Bottom, the largest settlement in Saba. The suite is quite spacious, with a living and dining area, a bedroom and a jacuzzi. The bathroom has a shower but no tub. There's a mini-fridge with complimentary bottled water (drinking tap water is not recommended). There's a flat-screen TV and a home theater system with iPod dock in the living room. If you're not an early riser, you may have a huge problem with the roosters. There are lots of them and they get going around 4:30am-5am. The entire hotel staff was really nice.

ISLAND TOUR: I couldn't wait to explore this little island. On someone's recommendation, I used the taxi services of Eddie Peterson. The tour lasted about 2 hours. I also used Mr. Peterson on other occasions (going to dinner and to the airport). He is a LOVELY gentleman who knows his island quite well. Cost: $50.

DIVING & SNORKELING: Saba is reportedly a diving mecca. I don't dive but I do snorkel. None of the dive companies on the island offer snorkeling trips. You can tag along on one of their dive trips and snorkel that way. I chose Sea Saba because the time they took snorkelers worked for me (1:30pm-3pm). We went to Tent Reef but the experience was disappointing. There were lots of fish, but the shallowest area (20 feet) was still too deep for me to have an enjoyable snorkel and take good pictures. At least, the divers seem to have enjoyed their dive. I was worried the water might be too cold but it was fine. Cost: $38 (includes taxi to and from resort, and snorkeling equipment).

HIKING MOUNT SCENERY: Let me start out by saying that I don't hike and I don't really work out. I'm not overweight but I'm also not in shape. I wanted to do this and I did it... but let me tell you, it was TOUGH. 30 minutes into some very steep hiking, I thought I was going to have to quit. My guide/naturalist was "Jungle" James Johnson. I booked him through the hotel. James is GREAT and full of information. He was very patient and encouraging to this very pitiful hiker. Some steps on the trail were slippery due to moss and recent rains. A walking stick and proper hiking shoes are necessary to prevent any nasty falls. We made it to the top after 2 1/2 hours, unfortunately it was too cloudy for any fabulous views. We went back down a different way and I did experience a great view from the Maskehorne Hill trail. Going down was much easier although the slippery steps were a bit nerve-wrecking. I am so proud of myself for having done this and I have the certificate to prove it... yup, you get one after the hike! Please note that this hike can be done in a shorter period of time. There are entrances to the trail that are closer to the top than the one we took. Cost: $50.

 

SPA SERVICES: I booked the 50-minute Queen's Gardens signature massage. The hotel does not have a spa but they'll bring Sally of Saba Day Spa to your room for the service. She's an American who used to work in the USVI. Sally is wonderful. I felt so relaxed and drowsy when she was done. Cost: $100.

QUEEN'S GARDENS RESTAURANT: The resort's restaurant serves very good food. I never had a bad meal. I ate all my breakfast and lunches there. One night, I had the Reef & Beef ($36) which is grilled tiger prawns and beef tenderloin with hollandaise sauce. On another night, I had the classic carpaccio ($18.50). For dessert, I tried the cheesecake ($11) and the trio of creme brulee ($14.50).

THE GATE HOUSE RESTAURANT: I had a very good dinner there. I ordered the lobster with curry sauce ($44) and a creme caramel ($9). I had a great conversation with the owner/hostess Lilianne that night. Her husband Michel is the chef. They are French and have lived in Saba for 7 years.

MONEY & ELECTRICITY: The U.S. dollar and major credit cards are widely accepted. The current is the same as in the U.S.

WEATHER: It was great. The temperature was in the 80s. The nights are cool.

THE ROADS: Goodness! They are narrow, curvy and nothing is flat! One is constantly going up and down, up and down! I thought St. Barthelemy's roads were something else, well St. Barth has nothing on Saba.

INTERESTING TIDBITS: There's no sewer system, so paper items do not go in the toilet. My favorite tidbit, however: there are no mosquitoes! Anyone who's read my trip reports knows how much those darn things love me. I never used repellent and I got zero bites! I was such a happy camper during my little trip. :-)

FINAL THOUGHTS: I love Saba. It is everything I thought it would be and more. It's unique, quaint, pretty, quiet, safe and filled with truly friendly people. I can't recommend Saba enough for anyone looking for a different island experience.